Michigan wineries blossom but grapes in short supply

By JOHN BRONZ
Capital News Service
Friday, Sept. 29, 2006


LANSING — The Michigan wine industry reached record numbers this year opening five new wineries.

A major problem is the supply of Michigan grapes can’t keep up with the demand, according to the Michigan Department of Agriculture.

“I get around 90 percent of my grapes from Michigan, but sometimes I have to go out of state and then I barely have enough to last me through the year,” said Amy Gagnon, owner of Stoney Acres Winery in Alpena.

Stoney Acres produces more than 1,000 gallons of wine per year, she said. It specializes in fruit and concord varieties, and it’s working on creating chocolate wine truffles. The future may include a bed and breakfast, selling through a distributor and developing a merlot.

“The community feels the winery belongs to them, and I get huge support it,” said Gagnon. “This is a another destination for tourists, along with the lighthouses and brewing company.”

Because of the supply problem, the Department of Agriculture may soon award grants through the Agricultural Innovation Fund to help current and future growers of wine grapes.

Terrace Hill Vineyards, in Berrien County, and Chateau Operations, in Grand Traverse County, applied for grants more than $25,000 each to upgrade their vineyards to increase supply to local wineries. Paradigm Viticultural Services, based in Van Buren County, applied for more than $90,000 to assist potential and new wine growers throughout Michigan.

The startup cost for a potential wine grower is between $7,000 and $10,000, according to Ron Perry, chair of Michigan State University’s Horticulture Department and a member of the Michigan Grape and Wine Industry Council.

“The grower on average will not see results until four years down the road,” said Perry. “The up-front investment is an expensive proposition.”

According to Linda Jones, executive director of the council, the cost to open a small winery is more than $600,000, which would require a minimum of a half-acre of land and a tasting room for potential buyers.

Michigan is along the 45th parallel that supports great wine growers in Germany, northern France and Italy. Michigan wineries produce world-class wines and prove it in yearly competitions, Jones said.

Types of wine grapes grown in Michigan and are used for wine are include varieties that make chardonnay, riesling, pinot grigio and cabernet franc. The hybrid varieties are vidal, chambourcin and chardonnal. According to Perry, more than 50 percent of Michigan grapes used for wine are of the hybrid variety.

The council attempts to attract buyers who have no experience as well as former fruit growers who have the necessary equipment.

“We educate the person who has a few acres and wants to start growing grapes and those that have the equipment from fruit growing,” Perry said.

The council also promotes Michigan wineries by creating an annual Wine and Spirits Competition in East Lansing.

One ongoing MSU study is determining what additional grapes can grow in Michigan’s climate.

Jones said, “We need more programs to educate people.”

“I feel that online programs and community college classes would help. We ask a lot of wineries they have to be proficient in three areas agriculture, tourism and knowledge of beverage and alcohol laws.”

The wine council’s goal is 10,000 acres of land growing wine grapes by 2024, from more than 4,000 acres now.